 |
| Lin Family Garden |
We stopped at Banqiao Station. Referring to the map, we had two destination to go to, one was the mansion and the other was a street whose name sounded promising to tea buyers. It would be a long walk to the courtyard mansion, under the glaring sun, whose heat bit the skin. It reminded me of the Melbourne summer, only in Melbourne, there was intermittent cool breeze and the air was drier. The air in Taipei was humid and it makes sweat stick to your body. Uncomfortable, but something you get used to after a while, and you have to commit yourself to not think about it. Later on we discovered that we could have stopped at Fuzhong Station, which was much nearer to the mansion compared to Banqiao Station.
Anyway, at first, we tried walking there ourselves, but soon got confused by the landmarks and the confusing roads. I tried asking for directions but the persons either did not know or they spoke too quickly for me to understand - even after asking them to slow down. We thought of taking the bus but none that were going to our destination were at the bus bay. In the end, after basking in the white sun, we decided to take a taxi that was so conveniently parked across the bus station. The taxi trip - albeit being a dangerous one, swerving around corners and breaking just in time for a woman on a bicycle to ride past, unscarred - was about 8 minutes and cost only NT$80.
Entrance was free. It's closed on the first Monday of every month. The courtyard house was impressive. Although I've seen more magnificent structures from the same era elsewhere, the estate was still a delight to explore, having its own character and history. One can only wonder how life would have been like behind these walls so many years ago. It cost a few hundred teals of silver to build back in the mid 1800s by a rich and influential family. It was restored to its original state a few years ago. Some parts are open to public.
It is a typical Chinese courtyard house, composed of many sections, with high walls, trees, brick paths, and gardens neatly trimmed, a large bird cage (occupied), and even a pond holding koi fish and carp. There were many arches and I especially enjoyed taking photos of them, they are like a door to another dimension. Bamboo line the paths, some were thin and tall, and a special variety was short and plump, called the swollen bamboo. The entrance was a long walkway, complete with speakers projecting bird sounds into the quiet air. It was serene until a noisy family came to disturb the peace. Of course, it was a popular tourist attraction, what was I expecting?
There were many buildings but I don't know the functions they served. There was one particular building with many glass windows. Many of the walls had bat or butterfly motifs, some had scrolls, and some had different fruit. I especially liked the gardens. One garden had a small hill, made of tone, with a stone garden set at the top. An ideal place to discuss poetry and sip tea on a cool spring's day, or a good sun bathe on a hot summer's day. Another garden had the pond I spoke of. There were water lilies in blossom, bright pink or purple. The pond was bordered by walk ways and high walls, made into a square, with a gazebo extending from one side of the wall. One part of the walk way was made to resemble a miniature bridge. A local family was picnicking at the gazebo, enjoying the cool shade I guess.
There was a peculiar structure in a more secluded part of the complex. Like many of the other buildings, this one has a very nice-sounding name. It's called the Moon Tide Water Pavilion, 'Yue bo shui xie', 月波水榭. It is built in the middle of a pond, in a double caltrop shape, witha little bridge as passage-way. It is named after the moon because the moon is reflected in the water. There was a platform on the roof but that was off-limits.
Some sections were closed, like the entrance to climb a tall stone structure, which I suspect would allow you to walk atop some of the walls. Some parts of the walls had calligraphy on them. Poems, I suppose. But most were plastered or pained over, leaving little sections of the works visible. I wonder why the restorer covered them, or maybe the works were disfigured by the squatters some decades ago?
Information about the Lin Family Garden was plentiful in video screenings in the larger buildings, but I hadn't the patience to watch them. Friendly staff were dressed in purple, offering a friendly smile to the aimless visitor. You could spend a whole morning relaxing there, having only portions of nearby or neighbouring buildings and the fellow tourist remind you of the present day.
Before exiting the garden we had a good rest on a stone bench, and refreshed ourselves with a cold water provided. In a busy, modern city, this is a great green escape into the past.
(To be continued)
Cheers
zhusun
Further reading:
http://en.linfamily.tpc.gov.tw/html/enlinfamily/profile/profile.jsp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lin_Family_Mansion_and_Garden
http://bradttaiwan.blogspot.com/2011/04/banqiaos-lin-family-gardens.html
No comments:
Post a Comment